Bypass Factory Amp/Crossover in 2002 Chevy Tahoe

This article strays a bit from home automation, but it was a small project that I completed recently and felt that others could benefit from a detailed write up with step-by-step instructions and pictures.

I recently found myself needing to replace almost every speaker in my 2002 Chevy Tahoe (non-Bose sound system).  The factory speakers were all blown and sounding pretty pitiful.  In fact I did not realize how bad it was until I removed the old factory speakers and noticed cone separation on every door speaker and the factory subwoofer.  

In addition to replacing the speakers, I came across a forum post on z71tahoe-suburban.com that discussed bypassing the factory amplifier for each of the door speakers.  It turns out that all the door speakers are routed thru the factory amplifier.  I am not sure that it provides amplification to the door speakers, but it does have an internal crossover that removes much of the bass from the audio signal.  Since I replaced all the door speakers with a better set of component speakers capable of handing more of the full audio range, I did not want the factory amp/crossover restricting the audio signal from the head unit (receiver) to the door speakers.  

The forum post included a detailed set of instructions on how to build an adapter cable that will plug directly into the factory wiring harness and the factory amplifier and bypass the factory crossover for the four door speakers.  This bypass cable does still send audio and power to the factory amplifier for the rear cargo area subwoofer and pillar tweeters.  (If you don't need the factory amp because you are using an after-market amplifier, then you may choose not to include that portion of the cable or just not plug the adapter back into the factory amplifier.)   This is a 100% non destructive modification to the Tahoe.  This bypass adapter can be removed at any time.    

Parts List

(click image to enlarge)

The following parts are required.

• 1 @ Metra 70-2002 GM Radio Wiring Harness
• 1 @ Metra 71-2002 GM Reverse Wiring Harness

Approximate Cost:  $20-25 USD
Total Time:  1-2 hours 

NOTE:  You may notice that these wiring adapters describe that they are for a Saturn vehicle.  Just ignore that, we are not going to use them as they are wired, we are going to reconfigure the wiring.  We just need these as they are the correct connectors that will work with the Tahoe's factory wiring harness and factory amplifier.

Tools & Supplies

I used the following tools and supplies to complete this project:

(click image to enlarge)

• Wire Cutters
• Wire Strippers
• Small Flat Screwdriver
• Small Paperclip
• Large Paperclip
• CD/DVD Drive Eject/Release Tool  (optional)
• Solder Iron
• Solder
• Solder Paste (optional)
• Small Nylon Wire Ties (optional)
• Assorted sized and color heat shrink tubing
• Heat Gun (or hair dryer, or cigarette lighter)
• Digital Multi-meter for continuity testing (optional)
• Table/Bench Vise (optional)
• Helping Hands with Alligator Clips (optional) 

NOTE:  If you are not comfortable with soldering, you could use wire nuts (twist on wire connectors, b-caps) instead to make each wiring connection.  This take up more room, but is perfectly viable.  Just make sure to use electrical tape or some means to ensure that the wire connectors don't vibrate loose and fall off over time. 

Assembly

We are basically going to use the two Metra GM connectors to create a bypass cable that will be installed in between the Tahoe's factory wiring harness and the factory amplifier/crossover.

<< STEP 1 >> - Disassemble the Metra 70-2002 Connector

The first step is to remove all the existing pins and wires from the Metra 70-2002 connector.  The pins are released by inserting a small paperclip below each pin and using a push and pull technique on the wire until the pin is released.  Don't use force to remove these pins, we will need to reuse each pin and wire.  

(click any image above to enlarge) 

<< STEP 2 >> - Disassemble the Metra 71-2002 Connector

The next step is to disassemble the Metra 71-2002 connector.  Before removing the pins and wires, we must first remove the two retaining clips (gray and blue).  Lets start with the gray clip.  Gently insert the end of a small flat screwdriver between the connector and the clip's retention clasp.  Repeat this for each side of the clip.  Once released, pull the clip towards the rear of the connector to remove it.  Next we need to remove the blue clip.  For the blue clip we must insert the end of the screwdriver to release the retention clasp from the front side of the connector.  Repeat this on both sides and then gently pull back the clip towards the rear of the connector to remove it.    

(click any image above to enlarge)

With the two clips removed, we can now remove each pin and wire.  To remove the pins in this connector, insert either the end of the large paper clip or the end of a CD/DVD disc removal tool into the face of the connector as show below to release the pin.  (I found that the diameter of the CD/DVD disc removal tool was slight larger than the paperclip and was a little easier to use.)  Use the push and pull technique on the wire to remove it from the connector.  Again, don't use force to remove these pins, we will need to reuse a few of the pins and wires.  The pins will easily slide out towards the rear of the connector once properly released.  

 

(click any image above to enlarge)

<< STEP 3 >> - Rewire the Connectors

The next step is to reinstall the wiring between the Metra 70-2002 connector and the Metra 71-2002 connector.  The wiring diagram below is what we will be building.  

Wiring Connection Legend

• Right Front (Negative) - [70] A1 to [70] A9 - RED
• Right Front (Positive) - [70] A2 to [70] A10 - GREEN
• Right Rear (Negative) - [70] A3 to [70] A11 to [71] A11 - BLACK
• Right Rear (Positive) - [70] A4 to [70] A12 to [71] A12 - ORANGE 
• Power Antenna  - [70] A5 to [71] A5 - YELLOW
• Left Front (Negative) - [70] B1 to [70] B9 - BLUE
• Left Front (Positive) - [70] B2 to [70] B10 - GRAY
• Left Rear (Negative) - [70] B3 to [70] B11 to [71] B11 - PURPLE
• Left Rear (Positive) - [70] B4 to [70] B12 to [71] B12 - WHITE 

WIRE 1 - RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER - NEGATIVE (A1 to A9)

Note that the red wire removed from the Metra 70-2002 Connector includes three pins and two short and one long wire segments.  Cut the second short wire segment as close as possible to the pin connector so that you have a single short segment with two pins attached.  Next, insert the pins into the rear of the Metra 70-2002 Connector in positions A1 and A9.  If the pin does not stay in place, you may need to take the screwdriver and bend the clasp on the pin back so that it can catch properly.    

(click any image above to enlarge) 

WIRE 2 - RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER - POSITIVE (A2 to A10)

Wire 1 was the easy one, the remaining wires will have to be soldered together (or connected using an alternate electrical connector).  Basically we need to connect two of the wires with pins together to create a single wire with a pin on each end.  Wire two is a simple straight connection using the green and green with black stripe wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector.  I trimmed the lengths down to eliminate bulk, but that is optional.  Cut, strip the insulation and solder the two ends of the green leads so that you end up with a single wire with a pins on each end.  Insert a length of heat shrink tubing around the connection and heat to shrink.  Finally insert the pins into position A2 and A10 of the Metra 70-2002 connector. 

solder two leads

place heat shrink

heat to shrink

insert into connector

WIRE 3 - RIGHT REAR SPEAKER - NEGATIVE (A3 to A11 to A11)

Wire 1 and wire two were straight connections that bypass the factory amplifier completely.  Wire three is slightly different because it also feeds the amplifier the rear audio signal so that the factory amplifier can drive the cargo area subwoofer and pillar tweeters.  If you do not want to use the factory amplifier at all you can leave out the A11 connection to the Metra 71-2002.  The next wire is a connection using the black and black with white stripe wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector and the black wire from the Metra 71-2002 connector.  Cut, strip the insulation and solder the three ends of the black leads so that you end up with a wire with two Metra 70-2002 pins and one Metra 71-2002 pin.  Before soldering make sure to stage a length of heat shrink tubing around the connection and after soldering slide the heat shrink tubing into place and heat to shrink.  Finally insert the pins into position A3 and A11 of the Metra 70-2002 connector and also A11 of the Metra 71-2002 connector. 

70-2002 close up

both connectors

71-2002 close up

WIRE 4 - RIGHT REAR SPEAKER - POSITIVE (A4 to A12 to A12)

Repeat the same steps as wire three using the orange and orange with yellow stripe wire leads.  Insert the pins into position A4 and A12 of the Metra 70-2002 connector and also A12 of the Metra 71-2002 connector. 

70-2002 close up

71-2002 close up

WIRE 5 - POWER ANTENNA (A5 to A5)

Wire 5 is a simple straight through connection from A5 of the Metra 70-2002 connector to A5 of the Metra 71-2002 connector using the yellow wire leads 

70-2002 close up

71-2002 close up

WIRE 6 - LEFT FRONT - NEGATIVE (B1 to B9) 
WIRE 7 - LEFT FRONT - POSITIVE (B2 to B10)  

Wire 6 and 7 are both simple straight bypass connection just like wire 1 and 2 except that they are installed on the "B" side of both connectors.  Wire 6 uses the blue with yellow strip and the tip of the red wire from the Metra 70-2002 connector.  There were not two blue leads and we need to reuse every pin, so I used just the tip of the remaining red wire lead and trimmed off the extra red wire.  See the photo for details.  Wire 6 should be inserted into positions B1 and B9 on the Metra 70-2002 connector.  Wire 7 uses the gray and gray with black strip wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector and should be inserted into positions B2 and B10 on the Metra 70-2002 connector.

Wire 6 - Blue

Wire 7 - Gray

WIRE 8 - LEFT REAR - NEGATIVE (B3 to B11 to B11) 
WIRE 9 - LEFT REAR - POSITIVE (B4 to B12 to B12)  

Wire 8 and 9 are identical to wires 3 and 4 except that they are installed on the "B" side of both connectors.  These wires provide the rear audio signal for the factory amplifier to deliver sound to the factory subwoofer and pillar tweeters in the cargo area.  Wire 8 uses the purple and purple with black stripe wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector and the purple with black stripe wire from the Metra 71-2002 connector.  Wire 8 should be inserted into positions B3 and B11 on the Metra 70-2002 connector and position B11 on the Metra 71-2002 connector.  Wire 9 uses the white and white with black stripe wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector and the white wire from the Metra 71-2002 connector.  Wire 9 should be inserted into positions B4 and B12 on the Metra 70-2002 connector and position B12 on the Metra 71-2002 connector.  

Wire 8 (70-2002 close up)

Wire 8 (71-2002 close up)

Wire 9 (70-2002 close up)Wire 9 (71-2002 close up)

WIRING COMPLETE 

That all the wiring steps, next, we will test the connections and complete the assembly.
Wiring Completed (click image to enlarge)

<< STEP 4 >> - Testing

If you have a multi-meter or continuity tester, its a good idea to test all the pins to make sure that the connectors are wired correctly before installing into the Tahoe.  Set the multi-meter to continuity testing mode and then test the following pins in the Metra 70-2002 connector and make sure there is a connection between them.  Also touch the other pins to ensure that no other pins have a connection for each test.

• A1 to A9
• A2 to A10
• A3 to A11
• A4 to A12
• B1 to B9
• B2 to B10
• B3 to B11
• B4 to B12

Next let's test the Metra 71-2002 connector.  To do this you can use the small paper clip to insert into each pin for testing.  Ensure the following connection are valid:

• Metra 70-2002 A5 to  Metra 71-2002 A5
• Metra 70-2002 A11 to  Metra 71-2002 A11
• Metra 70-2002 A12 to  Metra 71-2002 A12
• Metra 70-2002 B11 to  Metra 71-2002 B11
• Metra 70-2002 B12 to  Metra 71-2002 B12

Multi-meter / Continuity testertest Metra 70-2002test Metra 71-2002

<< STEP 4 >> - Tidy Up

All tests passed?  Great!  Let's finish by re-installing the retention clips in the Metra 71-2002 connector and and adding a few nylon wire ties to tidy up this bypass connector.  

blue clipgray clipMetra 71-2002 - complete

Install a few nylon tie straps and trim all the excess strapping.

Installation

Now that your have constructed the bypass adapter, the installation inside the truck is very simple.  Empty the glove box and then depress the right side towards the drivers side of the vehicle to allow the glove box door to open completely and drop open.

Next, locate the factory amplifier directly to the right of the cabin air filter on the right side of the glove box cavity.

Next, release the mounting retention clip located on top of the amplifier.  

Tilt the amplifier up to gain easier access to the wiring connectors plugged into the amplifier.  Unplug the lower wiring connector from the amplifier.  There is a release on the back side of the connector, you must depress this release before the plug can be removed from the amplifier.

Insert the Metra 70-2002 connector on the bypass adapter into the vehicles wiring harness.  Insert the other end of the bypass adapter (the Metra 71-2002 connector) into the factory amplifier.  Don't worry, you can't screw this up, the plugs only fit in their correct locations.

 

Tuck the bypass adapter away above the amplifier so that does not interfere with the glove box.  Put the amplifier back in place and re-attach the retention latch and then raise the glove box and fire up your stereo for a test.  That's it -- we are all done!

More Information / Source

More information about the wiring harness in the Tahoe and more specific details about this adapter can be found in this document:

• Factory_High_Pass_Crossover_Bypass_Tahoe_02.pdf

Please note:  the wiring coloring scheme used in this document is different than what is posted in this article.  The article used the best mix of colored wires based on what came in the Metra connector packages and trying to remain as consistent as possible for all connection leads.

This document was originally posted on this forum posting:  

• 2002 Factory High Pass Crossover Bypass, Step by Step directions to bypassing the amp

Update on Thursday, July 12, 2012 at 6:26AM by Robert Savage

If you are not interested in using the 2002 Tahoe's factory amplifier, rear pillar tweeters, and factory sub, then you only need the Metra 70-2002 connector and not the Metra 71-2002.

The wiring is bascially the same except that no wire leads extend to the second connector.  This version of the adapter just bypasses the factory amplifier/crossover and sends the pure unfiltered audio signals to all the door speakers.

---

UPDATE 2019-07-02

A number of user comments suggest that you can simply purchased Metra #70-2021 if you wish to do a complete bypass of the factory amp.   I have not personally verified or tested this, but it may be worth a try or further investigation for an easier off-the-shelf install.

Comments

[Charles]

This works perfect in my 2002 yukon since my amp was bad and cd player did not work i installed a new double din head unit and needed to bypass the amp as far as the factory subwoofer and piller tweeters go amazon has a boss 100 watt amplifier and install kit for under 50 bucks which makes a nice upgrade

[Charles]

Order in metra adapter 70-2021 it does the same thing unplug worked amp plug in adapter and your done no pin re configuring needed worked perfectly on my 2002 yukon

[Isaac]

Charles, the difference between this harness and the Metra 70-2021 harness is that the 70-2021 harness bypasses the amp completely, while this mod still sends a signal to the amp to drive the subwoofer and D-pillar tweeters. The 70-2021 harness will work to bypass the amp, but you will lose the sub and tweeters along with it.

[Greg]

I have 2001 tahoo. I replaced the factory sub and what I wanna do is hook up a sepert amp 2 it without buying anything. But there are no pre amp outputs on factory stereo. Can I wire new amp 2 factory amp?

[Mark W.]

That's a little "off the "beaten path" of the original Savage post and all the comments that have followed. If the OE in your Tahoe has (had) a non-BOSE, 7 speaker system (2 front door, 2 rear door, 2 rear column, 1 subwoofer), that system uses a head unit/amp combo that moves some of the bass signal from the door speakers to the subwoofer, obviously a disadvantage if the subwoofer is junk, or blown (the basic, non-BOSE OE used by Chevy was an 8" paper cone, which was junk to start with, and would thereafter disintegrate within 5+ years of use).

The Savage device bypasses the OE amp/filter (separate from the head unit, behind glove box), and puts all the head unit's bass signal back into the door speakers, without disabling the sub. After making/using the bypass for awhile, I found that I preferred just upgrading/replacing the junk OE subwoofer with a Rockford Fosgate 8" shallow-mount subwoofer, and have been happy with the overall sound from the factory head unit/amp combo ever since.

On your question, assuming what you want to do is simply "goose" the power to your subwoofer, you can most likely find a stand alone subwoofer amp that can be placed "in-line" somewhere between the OE subwoofer feed and the speaker itself. For this limited power reinforcement task, Crutchfield recommends a 100-watt amp:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-K5geFTGfuUa/learn/why-an-amp-is-key-to-better-sound-in-the-car.html

That's where I'd start ...

[Jay]

So I am working on this whole bypass gig and am excited for the end result. Since the burb isn't driven to much I am taking my time to acquire the stuff I need as I am also putting a new amp in for the aftermarket sub. I just went behind the glove compartment and popped the c-clamp off the factory amp and I'll be damned if there isn't something still holding that thing into the bracket. Has anyone run into this?? I can't see any additional screw or clamps anywhere so I am confused. I don't want to force it and wreck the bracket or something else in that area. Thoughts????

[Charlie]

Order in Metra 70-2021 integrated amp adapter from Amazon plugs right in no wiring or modification needed to bypass factory amp eliminates the need to build an adapter

[Charlie]

Order in Metra 70-2021 integrated amp adapter from Amazon it says Monte Carlo but it fits Tahoe Yukon and suburban and plugs right in to factory am harness no wiring or modification needed to bypass factory amp eliminates the need to build an adapter

[Sam]

I haven't been able to get the rear speakers working. 2000 Yukon. The front work great but the rear just aren't working.

[Greg]

PSA - The Metra 70-2002 no longer contains all of the wires used in this write up. It's not a huge issue, but I you may need to purchase two if you still want to make this harness exactly as it's written up here. Sorry if this was mentioned in previous comments, but I didn't read them all.

This is such an excellent write-up, pages like this are why I love the internet. I made one of these for my buddy and it made for such a smooth install. Kudos to the author, I'm happy I found this as I'll be reading through your home automation posts to see what other gems are hidden in here.

Best regards!

[Ce]

To bypass the factory amp you can simply order in metra part 70-2021 amplifier adapter it says monte carlo but bypasses the amp on all Tahoe Yukon suburban and is a direct plug in no configuration needed

[O’Boyle80]

So my question is I’ve seen a lot of the problems with this is on the 2001 ? I have a 2001 Yukon with after market head unit onstar center counsel rear controls tape player and no steering wheel controls I have bought new door speakers and rear sub so my question is does anybody know exactly what I need and how to wire I’ve read the whole thread and I just wanna get it right the first time my new head unit is single din

[chriskalloo]

hi i wanted to know if you can show a breakdown on ho to do a factory by pass on a 2005 dodge ram 1500 . i have a 6 spk sound system with an infinity amp .

[Corey]

Wow, thank you for the detailed instructions. I have installed many stereos but I have never took apart a wire harness and built a custom one. Works awesome. I could have never done it without you.

[Charles]

Listen Amazon sells an amp bypass adapter already made there is no need to make one order Metra part 70-2021 it says monte carlo but so far has worked on every taho,yukon,suburban from 99 to 2010 you just unplug amp and plug adapter in

[Corey]

The 70-2021 will bypass the am, but I wanted the factory amp to still power all the speakers. I built this to allow the lows to the doors and to be able to use the factory sub. Doesn’t the 70-2021 bypass the amp all together and make you have to rewire all the speakers??

[Robert Savage]

@Ce, @Charles, @Charley

Metra 70-2021 will completely bypass the factory amp and crossover. This custom built wiring adapter allows you to continue using the factory amp and crossover for the rear sub and read pillar tweeters in the cargo area. As least this is how it works for my 2002 Tahoe.

[Ray]

To the guy asking if this will work on a 2002 avalanche , it will but your front and back will be reversed hence the avalanche has a different amp labeled ACDelco part# 15068829 and the tahoe has one labeled AcDelco part# 15762536. for the avalanche you will need to connect
b12 to A2
b 11 to A1
b10 to b2
b9 to b1
a12 to a3
a11 to a4
a10 to b4
a9 to b3
using a 70-2021 has all 4 sets of jumper wires but just needs to relocate the pins on one side of the harness to meet with the correct speakers.

[Carlos]

How do you bypass the subwoofer and d pillar speakers forma factory amp un 2001 chevy tahoe

[Cameron]

I have a 2001 GMC Yukon XL that is non-Bose, non-Onstar, non-steering wheel controls, and no cassette player. There is only one wiring harness behind the head unit and I do not have a pink wire in the factory harness behind the head unit. My head unit is a Kenwood bluetooth deck that has the Blue/White (power control) wire but can't find a connection that powers the amp. Does anyone know how to still power the factory amp so that the subwoofer and pillar tweeters still work? Thank you.