Bypass Factory Amp/Crossover in 2002 Chevy Tahoe
This article strays a bit from home automation, but it was a small project that I completed recently and felt that others could benefit from a detailed write up with step-by-step instructions and pictures.
I recently found myself needing to replace almost every speaker in my 2002 Chevy Tahoe (non-Bose sound system). The factory speakers were all blown and sounding pretty pitiful. In fact I did not realize how bad it was until I removed the old factory speakers and noticed cone separation on every door speaker and the factory subwoofer.
In addition to replacing the speakers, I came across a forum post on z71tahoe-suburban.com that discussed bypassing the factory amplifier for each of the door speakers. It turns out that all the door speakers are routed thru the factory amplifier. I am not sure that it provides amplification to the door speakers, but it does have an internal crossover that removes much of the bass from the audio signal. Since I replaced all the door speakers with a better set of component speakers capable of handing more of the full audio range, I did not want the factory amp/crossover restricting the audio signal from the head unit (receiver) to the door speakers.
The forum post included a detailed set of instructions on how to build an adapter cable that will plug directly into the factory wiring harness and the factory amplifier and bypass the factory crossover for the four door speakers. This bypass cable does still send audio and power to the factory amplifier for the rear cargo area subwoofer and pillar tweeters. (If you don't need the factory amp because you are using an after-market amplifier, then you may choose not to include that portion of the cable or just not plug the adapter back into the factory amplifier.) This is a 100% non destructive modification to the Tahoe. This bypass adapter can be removed at any time.
Parts List
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(click image to enlarge)
The following parts are required.
Approximate Cost: $20-25 USD
Total Time: 1-2 hours
NOTE: You may notice that these wiring adapters describe that they are for a Saturn vehicle. Just ignore that, we are not going to use them as they are wired, we are going to reconfigure the wiring. We just need these as they are the correct connectors that will work with the Tahoe's factory wiring harness and factory amplifier.
Tools & Supplies
I used the following tools and supplies to complete this project:
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- Wire Cutters
- Wire Strippers
- Small Flat Screwdriver
- Small Paperclip
- Large Paperclip
- CD/DVD Drive Eject/Release Tool (optional)
- Solder Iron
- Solder
- Solder Paste (optional)
- Small Nylon Wire Ties (optional)
- Assorted sized and color heat shrink tubing
- Heat Gun (or hair dryer, or cigarette lighter)
- Digital Multi-meter for continuity testing (optional)
- Table/Bench Vise (optional)
- Helping Hands with Alligator Clips (optional)
NOTE: If you are not comfortable with soldering, you could use wire nuts (twist on wire connectors, b-caps) instead to make each wiring connection. This take up more room, but is perfectly viable. Just make sure to use electrical tape or some means to ensure that the wire connectors don't vibrate loose and fall off over time.
Assembly
We are basically going to use the two Metra GM connectors to create a bypass cable that will be installed in between the Tahoe's factory wiring harness and the factory amplifier/crossover.
<< STEP 1 >> - Disassemble the Metra 70-2002 Connector
The first step is to remove all the existing pins and wires from the Metra 70-2002 connector. The pins are released by inserting a small paperclip below each pin and using a push and pull technique on the wire until the pin is released. Don't use force to remove these pins, we will need to reuse each pin and wire.
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(click any image above to enlarge);)
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<< STEP 2 >> - Disassemble the Metra 71-2002 Connector
The next step is to disassemble the Metra 71-2002 connector. Before removing the pins and wires, we must first remove the two retaining clips (gray and blue). Lets start with the gray clip. Gently insert the end of a small flat screwdriver between the connector and the clip's retention clasp. Repeat this for each side of the clip. Once released, pull the clip towards the rear of the connector to remove it. Next we need to remove the blue clip. For the blue clip we must insert the end of the screwdriver to release the retention clasp from the front side of the connector. Repeat this on both sides and then gently pull back the clip towards the rear of the connector to remove it.
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(click any image above to enlarge)
With the two clips removed, we can now remove each pin and wire. To remove the pins in this connector, insert either the end of the large paper clip or the end of a CD/DVD disc removal tool into the face of the connector as show below to release the pin. (I found that the diameter of the CD/DVD disc removal tool was slight larger than the paperclip and was a little easier to use.) Use the push and pull technique on the wire to remove it from the connector. Again, don't use force to remove these pins, we will need to reuse a few of the pins and wires. The pins will easily slide out towards the rear of the connector once properly released.
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(click any image above to enlarge)
<< STEP 3 >> - Rewire the Connectors
The next step is to reinstall the wiring between the Metra 70-2002 connector and the Metra 71-2002 connector. The wiring diagram below is what we will be building.
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Wiring Connection Legend
- Right Front (Negative) - [70] A1 to [70] A9 - RED
- Right Front (Positive) - [70] A2 to [70] A10 - GREEN
- Right Rear (Negative) - [70] A3 to [70] A11 to [71] A11 - BLACK
- Right Rear (Positive) - [70] A4 to [70] A12 to [71] A12 - ORANGE
- Power Antenna - [70] A5 to [71] A5 - YELLOW
- Left Front (Negative) - [70] B1 to [70] B9 - BLUE
- Left Front (Positive) - [70] B2 to [70] B10 - GRAY
- Left Rear (Negative) - [70] B3 to [70] B11 to [71] B11 - PURPLE
- Left Rear (Positive) - [70] B4 to [70] B12 to [71] B12 - WHITE
WIRE 1 - RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER - NEGATIVE (A1 to A9)
Note that the red wire removed from the Metra 70-2002 Connector includes three pins and two short and one long wire segments. Cut the second short wire segment as close as possible to the pin connector so that you have a single short segment with two pins attached. Next, insert the pins into the rear of the Metra 70-2002 Connector in positions A1 and A9. If the pin does not stay in place, you may need to take the screwdriver and bend the clasp on the pin back so that it can catch properly.
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WIRE 2 - RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER - POSITIVE (A2 to A10)
Wire 1 was the easy one, the remaining wires will have to be soldered together (or connected using an alternate electrical connector). Basically we need to connect two of the wires with pins together to create a single wire with a pin on each end. Wire two is a simple straight connection using the green and green with black stripe wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector. I trimmed the lengths down to eliminate bulk, but that is optional. Cut, strip the insulation and solder the two ends of the green leads so that you end up with a single wire with a pins on each end. Insert a length of heat shrink tubing around the connection and heat to shrink. Finally insert the pins into position A2 and A10 of the Metra 70-2002 connector.
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solder two leads
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place heat shrink
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heat to shrink
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insert into connector
WIRE 3 - RIGHT REAR SPEAKER - NEGATIVE (A3 to A11 to A11)
Wire 1 and wire two were straight connections that bypass the factory amplifier completely. Wire three is slightly different because it also feeds the amplifier the rear audio signal so that the factory amplifier can drive the cargo area subwoofer and pillar tweeters. If you do not want to use the factory amplifier at all you can leave out the A11 connection to the Metra 71-2002. The next wire is a connection using the black and black with white stripe wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector and the black wire from the Metra 71-2002 connector. Cut, strip the insulation and solder the three ends of the black leads so that you end up with a wire with two Metra 70-2002 pins and one Metra 71-2002 pin. Before soldering make sure to stage a length of heat shrink tubing around the connection and after soldering slide the heat shrink tubing into place and heat to shrink. Finally insert the pins into position A3 and A11 of the Metra 70-2002 connector and also A11 of the Metra 71-2002 connector.
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70-2002 close up
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both connectors
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71-2002 close up
WIRE 4 - RIGHT REAR SPEAKER - POSITIVE (A4 to A12 to A12)
Repeat the same steps as wire three using the orange and orange with yellow stripe wire leads. Insert the pins into position A4 and A12 of the Metra 70-2002 connector and also A12 of the Metra 71-2002 connector.
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70-2002 close up
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71-2002 close up
WIRE 5 - POWER ANTENNA (A5 to A5)
Wire 5 is a simple straight through connection from A5 of the Metra 70-2002 connector to A5 of the Metra 71-2002 connector using the yellow wire leads
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70-2002 close up
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71-2002 close up
WIRE 6 - LEFT FRONT - NEGATIVE (B1 to B9)
WIRE 7 - LEFT FRONT - POSITIVE (B2 to B10)
Wire 6 and 7 are both simple straight bypass connection just like wire 1 and 2 except that they are installed on the "B" side of both connectors. Wire 6 uses the blue with yellow strip and the tip of the red wire from the Metra 70-2002 connector. There were not two blue leads and we need to reuse every pin, so I used just the tip of the remaining red wire lead and trimmed off the extra red wire. See the photo for details. Wire 6 should be inserted into positions B1 and B9 on the Metra 70-2002 connector. Wire 7 uses the gray and gray with black strip wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector and should be inserted into positions B2 and B10 on the Metra 70-2002 connector.
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Wire 6 - Blue
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Wire 7 - Gray
WIRE 8 - LEFT REAR - NEGATIVE (B3 to B11 to B11)
WIRE 9 - LEFT REAR - POSITIVE (B4 to B12 to B12)
Wire 8 and 9 are identical to wires 3 and 4 except that they are installed on the "B" side of both connectors. These wires provide the rear audio signal for the factory amplifier to deliver sound to the factory subwoofer and pillar tweeters in the cargo area. Wire 8 uses the purple and purple with black stripe wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector and the purple with black stripe wire from the Metra 71-2002 connector. Wire 8 should be inserted into positions B3 and B11 on the Metra 70-2002 connector and position B11 on the Metra 71-2002 connector. Wire 9 uses the white and white with black stripe wire leads from the Metra 70-2002 connector and the white wire from the Metra 71-2002 connector. Wire 9 should be inserted into positions B4 and B12 on the Metra 70-2002 connector and position B12 on the Metra 71-2002 connector.
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Wire 8 (70-2002 close up)
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Wire 8 (71-2002 close up)
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Wire 9 (70-2002 close up);)
Wire 9 (71-2002 close up)
WIRING COMPLETE
That all the wiring steps, next, we will test the connections and complete the assembly.;)
Wiring Completed (click image to enlarge)
<< STEP 4 >> - Testing
If you have a multi-meter or continuity tester, its a good idea to test all the pins to make sure that the connectors are wired correctly before installing into the Tahoe. Set the multi-meter to continuity testing mode and then test the following pins in the Metra 70-2002 connector and make sure there is a connection between them. Also touch the other pins to ensure that no other pins have a connection for each test.
- A1 to A9
- A2 to A10
- A3 to A11
- A4 to A12
- B1 to B9
- B2 to B10
- B3 to B11
- B4 to B12
Next let's test the Metra 71-2002 connector. To do this you can use the small paper clip to insert into each pin for testing. Ensure the following connection are valid:
- Metra 70-2002 A5 to Metra 71-2002 A5
- Metra 70-2002 A11 to Metra 71-2002 A11
- Metra 70-2002 A12 to Metra 71-2002 A12
- Metra 70-2002 B11 to Metra 71-2002 B11
- Metra 70-2002 B12 to Metra 71-2002 B12
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Multi-meter / Continuity tester;)
test Metra 70-2002;)
test Metra 71-2002
<< STEP 4 >> - Tidy Up
All tests passed? Great! Let's finish by re-installing the retention clips in the Metra 71-2002 connector and and adding a few nylon wire ties to tidy up this bypass connector.
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blue clip;)
gray clip;)
Metra 71-2002 - complete
Install a few nylon tie straps and trim all the excess strapping.
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Installation
Now that your have constructed the bypass adapter, the installation inside the truck is very simple. Empty the glove box and then depress the right side towards the drivers side of the vehicle to allow the glove box door to open completely and drop open.
Next, locate the factory amplifier directly to the right of the cabin air filter on the right side of the glove box cavity.
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Next, release the mounting retention clip located on top of the amplifier.
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Tilt the amplifier up to gain easier access to the wiring connectors plugged into the amplifier. Unplug the lower wiring connector from the amplifier. There is a release on the back side of the connector, you must depress this release before the plug can be removed from the amplifier.
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Insert the Metra 70-2002 connector on the bypass adapter into the vehicles wiring harness. Insert the other end of the bypass adapter (the Metra 71-2002 connector) into the factory amplifier. Don't worry, you can't screw this up, the plugs only fit in their correct locations.
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Tuck the bypass adapter away above the amplifier so that does not interfere with the glove box. Put the amplifier back in place and re-attach the retention latch and then raise the glove box and fire up your stereo for a test. That's it -- we are all done!
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More Information / Source
More information about the wiring harness in the Tahoe and more specific details about this adapter can be found in this document:
Please note: the wiring coloring scheme used in this document is different than what is posted in this article. The article used the best mix of colored wires based on what came in the Metra connector packages and trying to remain as consistent as possible for all connection leads.
This document was originally posted on this forum posting:
Robert Savage
If you are not interested in using the 2002 Tahoe's factory amplifier, rear pillar tweeters, and factory sub, then you only need the Metra 70-2002 connector and not the Metra 71-2002.
The wiring is bascially the same except that no wire leads extend to the second connector. This version of the adapter just bypasses the factory amplifier/crossover and sends the pure unfiltered audio signals to all the door speakers.
UPDATE 2019-07-02
A number of user comments suggest that you can simply purchased Metra #70-2021 if you wish to do a complete bypass of the factory amp. I have not personally verified or tested this, but it may be worth a try or further investigation for an easier off-the-shelf install.
Legal Notice & Disclaimer
Reader Comments (159)
I just did what Mark W. stated earlier to do. I reversed the polarities on the speakers going back into the factory amp. That worked for me. Now the sub and pillar speakers work! I got hung up on the darn pink wire dilemma. I don't have a pink wire behind the head unit and thought that I had to find its counterpart in my wiring configuration. Thank you Mark W. and a BIG THANK YOU to Robert Savage for putting this together. Maybe consider either editing the wiring illustration or adding an alternative if the sub and pillar tweeters don't work after plugging back into the factory amp.
Was reading some replies, everything seems strait forward. However when hooking up the radio, do you just splice in line lever wires at the radio side of the harness (with an adapter) or do you need to send pre-amp signal to the factory amplifier?
@ Rich: not sure what you're up to, but the Savage "hack" doesn't deal with basic installation stuff … it's a specialized bypass for a particular combination of GM/Chevy truck OE/factory audio components, designed/intended to do one thing: modify the signal traveling through the factory wiring/speakers to route more "bass" to the door speakers than the factory setup does. Another main feature of the bypass is that it effects this change in system balance without alteration of any of the original wiring or components. When it's done right, as directed by the original Savage plan/schematics (and as modified slightly by mine and others' experimentation/comments), what you end up with is a stand-alone wiring/harness patch that you can easily install, and take out, without ever having to "splice" into, cut or otherwise modify any of the original factory wiring/harnesses. If you're working with after-market head unit and/or other aftermarket components, you're kind of on your own ...
Mark,
This might seem like a dumb question. Would you happen to know what type of signal is feeding the factory amp? (line-level or pre-amp)
I'm trying to figure out what will happen when I install an aftermarket radio and try to use the factory amp/crossover with all the speakers on a 2002 tahoe. I might use your bypass later down the road. But at this time, I just want to install an aftermarket radio.
I would like to figure out if the factory radio has a line level out of a pre-amp out going to the factory amp.
Hope this response helps and doesn't make things more confusing.
Thank you
The only difference between "line" and "mic" level feeds is signal strength, and both terms refer to "pre-amp" signals ... the signal being generated by an origin source for primary amplification. These terms generally don't come into play when you're talking about the "signal" coming out of an auto stereo headunit ... unless the head unit is of a type that doesn't have an internal amp ... because all that stuff is going on inside the headunit, before anything comes out of it. The Delco radio supplied with most Silverados, Tahoes and Suburbans in 2002 DOES have its own stereo amplifier built into it (that's why you see "fins" on one side of it ... they provide cooling for the internal amp). Its output isn't designed to be run into another amp ... it's designed to properly drive two (stereo) speakers as a stand alone unit, so the output from the headunit is definitely a LOT hotter than anything that could be characterized as EITHER a "mic" or "line" level feed.
However, because the higher-line Tahoes and Suburbans had sound systems with more than just two speakers (and some with separate, rear passenger controls, etc.), Delco had to devise a post-head unit system for these particular models to divide up, refine and reinforce (as needed), the simple stereo output from their generic headunit. The separate "amp/filter" combo behind the glove compartment is the "brain" of that post-head unit system, and the Savage bypass basically does a non-invasive "end run" around it to, among other things, deliver headunit output directly to the door speakers, without disabling any of the remaining speakers (in mine, two little rear hatch column speakers and cargo area subwoofer) in the system as a whole.
If what you're doing is simply replacing the OE Delco headunit with an aftermarket unit that's also equipped with an internal amp, and assuming you've got the right harness/wiring connectors to incorporate it into the remaining factory components, I'd just install it and see how you like the results. If you're working with some other kind of head unit, I'm afraid that's where my expertise ends ... you'll need to do more customizing of the OE wiring, harnesses, etc. I tried the Savage bypass, but ended up removing it after I replaced my blown OE subwoofer with a much higher-quality, Rockford-Fosgate model. I had also replaced all the junk OE door speakers with Infinity's long before that, so what I've got now is the OE Delco head unit and post head unit amp/filter set up driving all new, aftermarket speakers, through all the OE wiring/harnesses. Hope all this helps.
It looks like you have answered my question, thanks for the explanation
Robert, Thanks for all the info, really helped me out but just to save some people some time I used the Metra 70-2021 as some of your other responses suggested. It works but you do have to re-wire it to make it work correctly. It is originally wired "upside down" from the Chevy truck wiring. In other words, if you plug it in without re-wiring it, the left front controls become the left rear and vice versa, same with the right side. I checked the connections before I plugged it in and re-wired it according to your diagram. When I installed it all controls were correct. The best part about doing it this way is, it took approximately 4 minutes to re-wire, no cutting, no stripping, no soldering, just remove the wires and re-install according to your diagram.
Thanks, have a great day.
Thanks so much for this article, Robert. Brilliant description, clearly authored with great pictures. I have a 2002 Yukon without the Bose stereo, steering wheel controls, and pillar speakers (tweeters are in the doors with the speakers) but I do have a cassette player just above the center cupholders. Does anyone have or know of if Robert's process will work for my configuration as well? I just ordered the harnesses on Amazon, but am curious to see if I need to make any accommodations for my rig. Thanks!
I have a 2004 Suburban LT, equipped with Bose radio.
production codes:
UQ7 "Bose Premium Speaker"
UB1 "Radio head unit"
UK6 "Radio Control Rear seat"
(I DON'T have a Y91 and U2K U2L)
How did this system work as an original BOSE system?
I have found the following units:
-UB1 "Radio head unit"
-"System unit" mounted behind the glove compartment. (Is this a Matsushita unit?)
-Amplifier under the center console. (Is this a BOSE amplifier?)
-UK6 "Radio Control Rear seat" (I think that this only handles low level audio signals)
-Center mounted subwoofer center mounted subwoofer. (Right sub and Left sub)
Loudspeakers: UQ7 "Bose Premium Speaker"
-LF Left Front Tweeter mounted in the left A pillar
-RF Right Front Tweeter mounted in the right A pillar
-LF Left Front Door speaker
-RF Right Front Door speaker
-LR Left Rear Door speaker
-RR Right Rear Door speaker
-LR Left Rear Tweeter mounted in the left D pillar
-RR Right Rear Tweeter mounted in the right D pillar
Thought to do a electric clean up,
and unplug those units that do not need to be plugged in.
But before I do a electric clean up,
Do I want to understand how the original system did work.
Please:
Help me and explain how this system is supposed to work, from the factory.
My original system does not work.
What a great article share. A great contribution especially for someone looking forward to buying a car subwoofer, amplifier and enclosure. If anybody wants to install a new one, this is the most effective share, that will be very helpful for best choice. Thanks a lot for the post.
Is there a way just to get the tweeters working and not the sub. No need for sub since I upgraded that and put in an aftermarket amp.
I replaced the blown OE subwoofer with a new Rockford Fosgate shallow mount job, but didn't put in any new power amp for it … just used the same factory wiring that previously fed the OE, which works fine for me. I can't remember if the little rear column speakers and sub are fed by separate lines from the dash components, but that shouldn't be hard to figure out. Just disconnect the leads at the dash end one at a time and use a multi-meter to check continuity at the speaker terminal points.
Here has incredible post for “”. Author share a superb ideas include all think that should be very helpful for everyone. Keeps all about very straightforward. Thanks for posting.
Thanks you very much for post, This the best guide post for car audio sound system include
details. It is a very effective and helpful share for beginners. Author keeps all think at this share.
Nice write up! My 70-2002 connector was short TWO pins. I looked it up and they can be purchased from Mouser under part number 12040902-L for $0.39... of course you have to have the crimping tool and shipping kinda kills that deal so unless you need to order other stuff, get a second 70-2002 OR connect the wires on the factory harness. Have fun.
Does anyone know the Metra male pin type for the wire ends and part number?
Wow! Grate post sir, that’s amazing. This is really great tips and suggestions for music lovers. Everybody will be benefited from that post.
Wow, thank you for posting this. It worked perfectly in my 2001 Tahoe. I was having a problem and I didn't even know it until I followed your instructions. My only hiccup was in the Metra 70-2002 I purchased on Amazon was short a wire so I had to buy two of them. On a positive note though, having two of the 70-2002 meant that I could match all the wire colors and my OCD didn't have to kick in. Thanks again for taking the time to put together a great walkthrough tutorial. And thanks to Tahoe Steve for linking this in his YouTube with a video tutorial.
Thanks for the great hack! I'm really happy with the results! It looked involved but I dove in anyway, and it all worked like a charm and was not complicated!
Hello I did everything exactly like you instructed above but when I connect the plugs to the amp I get very very low sound. When I plug it back in with the original plugs I get sound. Am I doing something wrong? I have an 01 GMC Yukon with onstar.